Ocatarinetabellatchitchix Posted August 30, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 30, 2022 I never buy slab coins…except this one which was missing in my collection. So I need your help members: my new coin is choking… How can I free it ? Here are some tools I have at home. Which one should I use ? PLEASE HELP ME ! 10 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prieure de Sion Posted August 30, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 30, 2022 (edited) ...but I used a normal hacksaw. That does it too. Edited August 30, 2022 by Prieure de Sion 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furryfrog02 Posted August 30, 2022 · Supporter Share Posted August 30, 2022 Honestly, I have no idea. I don't buy slabbed coins. I have a couple of moderns that are slabbed but they came to be that way. I wish you a speedy Victory in freeing Victorinus from his plastic tomb. Looking forward to seeing him au natural soon! 8 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat Posted August 30, 2022 · Supporter Share Posted August 30, 2022 Love all the above ideas. But seriously if you clamp the bottom of the slab in a vice and twist the top clockwise and anti it should crack the heat sealed join around the slab. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientJoe Posted August 30, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 30, 2022 I place the slab in a towel on a hard surface and hit it a few times near the corner with a hammer. That will usually be enough to crack it and the rest can be pulled apart. So far, I've never damaged a coin (knock on wood!) 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougsmit Posted August 30, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 30, 2022 There are as many ways as there are collectors (or so it seems). My workshop has a large vise in which I place a towel wrapped slab edgewise and slowly exert pressure until I hear a crack. This does not destroy the plastic and is more refined that the hammer or saw methods but I realize not everyone has a vise they inherited from ancestors. Mine is ~100 years old but I understand they still make them. I don't have a photo of one in action but the vise is shown here. The chicken is not required for this operation. 😀 9 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sand Posted August 30, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 30, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Prieure de Sion said: ...but I used a normal hacksaw. That does it too. 2 hours ago, expat said: Love all the above ideas. But seriously if you clamp the bottom of the slab in a vice and twist the top clockwise and anti it should crack the heat sealed join around the slab. 2 hours ago, AncientJoe said: I place the slab in a towel on a hard surface and hit it a few times near the corner with a hammer. That will usually be enough to crack it and the rest can be pulled apart. So far, I've never damaged a coin (knock on wood!) 51 minutes ago, dougsmit said: There are as many ways as there are collectors (or so it seems). My workshop has a large vise in which I place a towel wrapped slab edgewise and slowly exert pressure until I hear a crack. This does not destroy the plastic and is more refined that the hammer or saw methods but I realize not everyone has a vise they inherited from ancestors. Mine is ~100 years old but I understand they still make them. I don't have a photo of one in action but the vise is shown here. The chicken is not required for this operation. 😀 I like all of the above ideas. I may try one of the above ideas, the next time I buy a coin, which is in a slab. I'm starting to like the ideas, that don't involve a hack saw, because my hack saw method, destroys the NGC label. I'm starting to think, that I would like to try to preserve the NGC label, rather than just taking photos of the NGC label before I saw through it. Here's my hack saw method (sometimes called "hacksaw"), that I've used so far, which is the method that @Prieure de Sion mentioned. Before I remove a coin from a slab, I always take photos, of both sides of the slab. That way, I can always refer to the NGC number, that was on the slab, in order to lookup photos of the coin, on the NGC web site. That way, the NGC number serves as sort of a certificate of authenticity (COA). A hack saw is a thin metal saw, with lots of very small teeth. Don't try to use a regular wood saw, because the teeth aren't small enough, and the blade is too thick. I cut off the end of the slab, away from the coin, to keep plastic dust off of the coin. Then, holding the slab over a box top with a soft pad in the box top, I put a large flat head screwdriver, into the cut end of the slab, near the edge of the slab, and carefully twist the large flat head screwdriver, to pry apart the top of the slab, from the bottom of the slab. When you pry with the large flat head screwdriver, you have to be careful, not to cause the top half, or bottom half, of the slab, to break, where the coin is, because that could scratch the coin. That's why I put the large flat head screwdriver, near the edge of the slab. You may have to carefully work your way, around the edge of the slab, with the large flat head screwdriver, to gradually get the top of the slab, and the bottom of the slab, apart. Here are photos, of one of my formerly slabbed coins, and my hack saw. Edited August 30, 2022 by sand 10 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
znmto Posted August 31, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 31, 2022 12 hours ago, sand said: the NGC number serves as sort of a certificate of authenticity (COA) it does not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis JJ Posted August 31, 2022 · Supporter Share Posted August 31, 2022 (edited) Here's one that I had tremendous trouble with. It was not at all similar to cracking more recent ANACS or NGC slabs. (All I could do with the vice was chip/shatter the outside edges, not even penetrate the seal. The entire perimeter was heavily rounded so there was nothing square or sharp or any "edges" at all for the vice to grip, and keep it from slipping when tightened.) Unlike NGC & ANACS, I never found any thin or weak spots to attack. I literally sawed off all four edges before I could pull it out safely. This was one of the first ancient coins slabbed c. 2002. I don't know if all ICG slabs were difficult to open from that period or if the ancients were especially so. To be honest, it's one that I would've liked to have left in, only because it was part of the first major auction of slabbed ancient coins ever, a couple hundred coins from the Dr. Joseph Seventko Collection at Heritage Signature Sale 296 in July 2002 (it didn't seem to go well, but Heritage pushed through until encapsulating ancients became successful later). They ran full page ads (one shown below) for ICG / Heritage / Seventko Collection for several issues of The Celator and other publications, and held promotional events at coin shows. But it was poorly slabbed -- the weight hadn't been recorded and the edges were covered up (losing >1mm of perimeter), and the coin was tilted, not flush. Once I got it out I was able to trace the provenance to a couple more prior sales (including the Athena Fund / NFA Sale at Sotheby's in 1993). Now I can keep it in my DIY slab if I want to: Edited August 31, 2022 by Curtis JJ 12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaleun96 Posted August 31, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 31, 2022 Just cracked these two in under 3 minutes by placing them together in a hobby vice with rubber jaw covers and closing the vice just enough to stop them from moving and then I cut into a long edge on each slab with a stanley knife. Even with just a somewhat light cutting, the slab edge can be heard coming apart. I then removed them from the vice and was able to pull them apart with my hands. This is definitely the easiest go I've had at removing coins from a slab. Before this I've opened maybe 4 or 5 slabs and have spent at least 10-15min on them with hammer, pliers, and screwdriver, and the slabs always end up a mess in many pieces. 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Conduitt Posted August 31, 2022 · Supporter Share Posted August 31, 2022 8 hours ago, znmto said: it does not. It does in the sense that if NGC have a high resolution photo of the coin, you have a coin that looks exactly like the one in the photo. That's probably harder to achieve than faking a slab. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Posted August 31, 2022 · Member Share Posted August 31, 2022 The easiest way I found to free a coin from a slab is to use a bench vise. Simply squeeze each edge in the vise until you hear a crack or pop. It should easily open, with no flying plastic. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrizzyAntoine Posted September 1, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 1, 2022 While I'm quite partial to @Prieure de Sion's suggested methods, I use the relatively unconventional combo of a wrench and screwdriver myself (a hammer would do the same, I just prefer a wrench). I made a short tutorial on how to do it a little while back as a joke... https://imgur.com/gallery/bSiVAYe 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benefactor robinjojo Posted September 1, 2022 · Benefactor Benefactor Share Posted September 1, 2022 Only as a last resort. I've found that gently tapping the edge of the slab with a small hammer (I use a small prospector hammer) will create a large enough crack to allow you to pry it open with your hands. Do this on carpet. The coin should fall out, usually along with the insert. Keep the NGC label with the coin in its new holder. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ocatarinetabellatchitchix Posted September 1, 2022 · Member Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 Many thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I finally tried @AncientJoe technique and it went well. Since he’s used to crack slabs containing aurei and Eid Mar coins, I knew I could trust him… 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewStyleKing Posted September 2, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 2, 2022 I found Demeter & Artemis no problem to prise open with screwdriver with minimal damage to the plastic tomb! The only plastic tomb I have ever had. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ValiantKnight Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 (edited) I echo @AncientJoe’s suggestion. It’s how I freed my London-mint campgate. Crispus, Roman EmpireAE follisObv: FL IVL CRISPVS NOB CAES, laureate, draped, cuirassed bust rightRev: PROVIDEN-TIAE CAESS, campgate, 6 layers, 2 turrets, star above, no doorsMint: London; Mintmark PLON (in ex.)Ref: RIC VII 295 Edited September 3, 2022 by ValiantKnight 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prieure de Sion Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 YEHOVA! You can stone me. But I'm starting to like the slabs more and more. I have tried so many different systems of (safe) storage now. I can't come to a unified system (and I like unified systems). Sometimes the coins are different ovals, then different thicknesses and different sizes. For example, I have small silver coins of around 17 mm from one collecting area and matching large silver coins around 30 mm. The large silver coins are also much thicker than the small coins. I can't put them in the same system - the boxes are available for 17mm coins and 30mm coins - but the big ones are too thick. So I have to use visually different boxes. Or I store them openly in simple coin drawers. But I can't take a 17mm division because big coins don't fit in there. So I use 30mm divisions - but the small coins are lost in them. So I take two drawers - one for the small coins, one for the big coins - even though they are the same collecting areas - they are separate. And with the slabs, no matter whether 16mm, 20mm, 25mm or 30mm, I always have the same base. They are protected. They always have the same dimensions on the outside. I can take ONE collection box and put them all in one compartment - in the right chronological and thematic order. And I have a little information right at the top of the coin. I am seriously considering becoming an NGC member and having all my coins - the valuable ones first - boxed. And now you can stone me 😄 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewStyleKing Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 But a great part of the pleasure of coins is that they are tactile! They were handled by saints and sinners unknown and buried and forgotten until some local with a metal detector found them (usually). Plastic is so antiseptic, only for baseball cards and the like where the base is paper and non-fast colour images! (Photo labile!) You are not collecting ( and studying, hopefully) coins but plastic filing systems Don't worry about storing the coins so much....it's the coins that count, they'll be fine . Real provenance is who minted it and why, who got it and buried it. The rest is stamp collecting.( Rutherford) NSK=John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientJoe Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 6 hours ago, Prieure de Sion said: YEHOVA! You can stone me. But I'm starting to like the slabs more and more. I have tried so many different systems of (safe) storage now. I can't come to a unified system (and I like unified systems). Sometimes the coins are different ovals, then different thicknesses and different sizes. For example, I have small silver coins of around 17 mm from one collecting area and matching large silver coins around 30 mm. The large silver coins are also much thicker than the small coins. I can't put them in the same system - the boxes are available for 17mm coins and 30mm coins - but the big ones are too thick. So I have to use visually different boxes. Or I store them openly in simple coin drawers. But I can't take a 17mm division because big coins don't fit in there. So I use 30mm divisions - but the small coins are lost in them. So I take two drawers - one for the small coins, one for the big coins - even though they are the same collecting areas - they are separate. And with the slabs, no matter whether 16mm, 20mm, 25mm or 30mm, I always have the same base. They are protected. They always have the same dimensions on the outside. I can take ONE collection box and put them all in one compartment - in the right chronological and thematic order. And I have a little information right at the top of the coin. I am seriously considering becoming an NGC member and having all my coins - the valuable ones first - boxed. And now you can stone me 😄 I do understand this challenge. I use Lighthouse Quickslabs which can support most of my collection while still being able to open them on-demand. However, they aren't thick enough for some electrum staters, a couple tetradrachms, and my dekadrachm. I would like to unify under one storage approach which balances safety and ease of viewing. NGC slabs would perfectly meet the need... but the cost is exorbitant and I do like touching my coins (not to mention photography through slabs is awful). Double-thick Quickslabs would solve it entirely for me but they don't exist. So, for the time being, I have to use a hybrid approach where some coins are in flips, trays, and others in Quickslabs. My desire for consistency is not happy! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewStyleKing Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 These dot all my i 's and cross all my T 's big enough for 37mm NewStyle tets of various thicknesses...maybe a 42gm Sicilian Dekadrachm will defeat them! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prieure de Sion Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 32 minutes ago, AncientJoe said: not to mention photography through slabs is awful If you wish - for 5 euros - "they" will take a professional photo of your coin before wrapping it and send you the high-resolution image. I will try that out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nerosmyfavorite68 Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 Do what works for you. However, think long term. If these things get scratched up or yellow over time, that's a huge hassle in freeing them. My only slabs are presents; coins from the local coin shop. The slabs really make these coins look worse, in my opinion. Flips in coin boxes would be pretty uniform. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sand Posted September 3, 2022 · Member Share Posted September 3, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Prieure de Sion said: YEHOVA! You can stone me. But I'm starting to like the slabs more and more. I have tried so many different systems of (safe) storage now. I can't come to a unified system (and I like unified systems). Sometimes the coins are different ovals, then different thicknesses and different sizes. For example, I have small silver coins of around 17 mm from one collecting area and matching large silver coins around 30 mm. The large silver coins are also much thicker than the small coins. I can't put them in the same system - the boxes are available for 17mm coins and 30mm coins - but the big ones are too thick. So I have to use visually different boxes. Or I store them openly in simple coin drawers. But I can't take a 17mm division because big coins don't fit in there. So I use 30mm divisions - but the small coins are lost in them. So I take two drawers - one for the small coins, one for the big coins - even though they are the same collecting areas - they are separate. And with the slabs, no matter whether 16mm, 20mm, 25mm or 30mm, I always have the same base. They are protected. They always have the same dimensions on the outside. I can take ONE collection box and put them all in one compartment - in the right chronological and thematic order. And I have a little information right at the top of the coin. I am seriously considering becoming an NGC member and having all my coins - the valuable ones first - boxed. 2 hours ago, AncientJoe said: I do understand this challenge. I use Lighthouse Quickslabs which can support most of my collection while still being able to open them on-demand. However, they aren't thick enough for some electrum staters, a couple tetradrachms, and my dekadrachm. I would like to unify under one storage approach which balances safety and ease of viewing. NGC slabs would perfectly meet the need... but the cost is exorbitant and I do like touching my coins (not to mention photography through slabs is awful). Double-thick Quickslabs would solve it entirely for me but they don't exist. So, for the time being, I have to use a hybrid approach where some coins are in flips, trays, and others in Quickslabs. My desire for consistency is not happy! I sympathize with your frustrations. My (mostly) unified system, is to use an Abafil velvet tray, which has only 1 huge compartment. I keep most of my favorite ancient Greek coins, ancient Africa coins, and ancient Middle East coins (32 coins) in 1 tray (the exception is 2 slabbed coins, which I keep in a cardboard box). I keep my favorite ancient Roman coins in 1 tray (46 coins). I keep my favorite Byzantine coins in 1 tray (34 coins). I keep my favorite Chinese, Vietnamese, and Japanese coins in 1 tray (36 coins). And, I keep my favorite Celtic, medieval, Spanish colonial, English, and US coins in 1 tray (43 coins, except for my Lincoln cent collection, which is in albums). I like this approach, because I can arrange the coins the way I want (for example, chronological order), and there is no wasted space between coins. I keep each tray in a separate Abafil "Diplomat 2" case. The "Diplomat 2" case is designed to contain 2 regular depth trays, stacked on top of each other. But, I just keep 1 tray in each case. This allows the thick coins and trachy (cup shaped) coins to be stored, and I don't have to remove a tray, to see a tray underneath. By "safe", do you guys mean, that it has no PVC or plastic or other harmful materials? By that definition, I consider my coins to be safe. However, if I ever were to drop a case, or even if I were to tilt a case at an angle greater than 20 degrees from the horizontal, or jerk a case too hard, then all of the coins would get jumbled up together, which would be bad. So far, that hasn't happened. Also, the coins tend to drift across the velvet over time, so I have to move them back to their original positions occasionally, to prevent them from eventually touching each other. I moved my exercise equipment to a different room, to minimize vibrations in the "coin room", to minimize the coin "migration". I've been using this approach, for 2 years. So far, it has worked, for me. However, it may not work, for some people. However, I also have Abafil trays with 24 compartments in each tray (approximately 48 mm interior diameter per compartment), and some trays with even larger compartments, and some deep trays, if I ever decide to switch to that approach. Edited September 3, 2022 by sand 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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