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HipShot Photography

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  1. I like this type of coin. There are some excellent examples here. This one came into my studio a while ago and I finally got to shoot it yesterday. I'd love to have it in my collection.
  2. They're single-exposure images, I don't use HDR for coins (but I love it for building interiors) however, on rare occasions, I will use luminosity masks. This image was shot with a macro lens, so it's a 10-frame focus stack to get the entire shot in focus. Of course, you'll notice the entire frame isn't in focus. That's because I wanted a shallow depth of field for this image, so after it was focus-stacked, I used the tilt-shift in Photoshop to put the focus area on a different angle than my camera gave me, and made it as wide as I wanted it. It's best to create a separate layer as a smart object so you can tweak the tilt-shift effect. This image was intended for cropping for either horizontal or vertical presentation in online ads. The best part, I still have the fully focused version if I need it for something else.
  3. This image is not shot with axial lighting but uses the same single light as mentioned above, positioned behind the coins, using the same diffuser and a few small mirrored reflectors in front to throw highlights on the edges of the coins. As always, the position of the camera relative to the light, and the position of the diffuser make all the difference.
  4. I shot the gold coins below a few days ago, both with my axial lighting set up. I use a single light 500 W studio light (with a 30-degree honeycomb grid) on the right side, passing through a layer of Lee 216 diffuser that I positioned closer (or farther away) from the coin as needed, for different levels of contrast. In this case, the diffuser is fairly close to the coins, about 6" away, for a soft even light. It can be up to 15" away for high-contrast light.
  5. Here you go... this is about as "in hand" as you can get. Shot with my cell phone. My apologies to the thread, this is not a gold coin. And this is my axial lighting image, processed in Photoshop. It's not that different.
  6. Cool.. I'd like to see the pictures. Were the bars you shot newly minted, or kinda scratchy like the ones I had?
  7. Yes indeed! Three 1-kilo coins at once was a first for me. I've shot plenty of gold kilo bars, or even bigger ones, but kilo coins don't surface very often. Only 50 of the Lacrosse coins were minted, but less than a quarter of them were sold. Another coin from the same series fetched $90,000 US (approximately $117,200 Cdn.) at auction a few years ago. If you're wondering, the coin and bar image above was shot with a single light - essentially a bare bulb - about 2 feet behind it, and up at about a 30-degree angle, placed behind a layer of Lee 216 diffuser, and some small reflectors in front. It takes some tweaking to get the camera angle, the light angle, and the placement of the diffuser just right to light it but not burn it out.
  8. Here's one of three 1-kilo gold coins I had the privilege of shooting recently. This was done with my hybrid axial lighting setup. The gold maple is in there for size reference.
  9. To me, none of those look like they were taken by a professional coin photographer. To be fair, there are so many variables in photography, and over 18 years it seems impossible to make them look the same, even still, they should all be of better quality overall. I've seen some horrid work on the NGC website. Here's a sample of some gold coin images I took, from ancient, medieval, and modern times. Some were certified, others were raw. It's all about the lighting. All of these were shot on a white background (to help light the edges) and the background was removed in post-production. These are presented in my version of the TrueView style.
  10. Your graphic work is exceptional. I particularly like the layouts of your Denarii collections. Well done. Were those created for a specific application or for fun?
  11. Thank you. Yes, those images are focus stacked. Generally, it takes about 15 -20 images to capture a coin.
  12. There is some beautiful work here. When it comes to presentations, let me add my own two cents worth. Personally, I try not to let the background overpower the coins. To me, they are the stars of my show. Simplicity can be your best friend. Sometimes negative space makes the biggest impact. And you can always leave room for text, above or to the side. or, as I do occasionally, go completely off the rails.
  13. Thank you so much for your help. I downloaded the pdf and used google translate, which worked pretty well, but not without a few hiccups. I had to manually correct a number of formatting issues and translation glitches, but overall, very happy with it and the article is excellent. Well worth the effort. Thank you for recommending it. I'm going to add a link to my translated document on my website when I finish the article.
  14. Hello Everyone, I'm fascinated by the history of numismatic photography and I am looking for any gems of information anyone can provide. Does anyone have any stories, anecdotes, references, or links to share? Little known facts? I would be very grateful for any assistance.Also, if anyone can direct me to threads already within this forum on the topic, I'd really appreciate it. I tried searching here but my keywords returned too many results to reasonably sift through.I have been going through the archives of both the ANA and the RCNA, and while it's immensely helpful, it's a slow process, and more importantly, I'm sure this community has a wealth of additional knowledge about numismatic photography beyond North America to share. Anything and everything would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
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